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Title: Savoring History at Katz’s Delicatessen: Pastrami, Presidents, and Pop Culture
Description: The legendary story behind Katz’s Delicatessen, its pastrami, presidential visits, and a famous film moment.
Categories: ["history", "culture", "food", "celebrities", "politics"]
Story:
On Manhattan’s Lower East Side, Houston Street is alive with energy—yellow cabs whiz by, locals hustle to the subway, and, at the corner of Ludlow, one neon-lit storefront never seems to sleep. That’s Katz’s Delicatessen, a New York institution since 1888, where the scent of smoked meat is as enduring as the city skyline itself.
Katz’s began as Iceland Brothers Delicatessen, founded by Morris and Hyman Iceland, Jewish immigrants who brought Old World curing traditions to a new city teeming with arrivals. By 1910, Willy Katz joined the operation, and after a few years, the name changed to Katz’s Delicatessen. Over a century later, the deli’s essence remains unchanged: hand-carved pastrami, rye bread, and a sense of belonging for everyone who walks through its doors.
The pastrami here is legendary, and for good reason. It starts with beef brisket, brined for days in a blend of secret spices, then smoked and steamed until it’s impossibly tender. The countermen, knives flashing with practiced ease, slice each order to perfection. Every customer is handed a ticket at the door—lose it, and you’ll pay a stiff fee, a tradition as iconic as the food itself. This ritual, along with the deli’s no-nonsense banter, is as much a part of the Katz’s experience as the sandwiches.
But Katz’s is more than a destination for hungry New Yorkers. During World War II, the deli coined its famous phrase: “Send a salami to your boy in the Army.” As young men shipped off overseas, families lined up to mail Katz’s salamis to the front lines—a taste of home, thousands of miles away. The walls today are filled with black-and-white photos of soldiers, celebrities, and families, each one a testament to the deli’s place in the city’s collective memory.
Presidents, too, have found their way to Katz’s. Harry Truman stopped in during his time in office, and Bill Clinton famously paid a visit. In 2014, then-President Barack Obama made headlines when he ordered a classic pastrami on rye, his Secret Service detail momentarily overwhelmed by the lunchtime rush. For a brief moment, even the leader of the free world had to wait his turn.
For many, though, Katz’s is synonymous with a particular scene in movie history. In 1989, director Rob Reiner filmed a pivotal moment from Nora Ephron’s “When Harry Met Sally...” at one of the deli’s front tables. Meg Ryan’s character, Sally, delivered an unforgettable performance, prompting an older woman—played by Reiner’s own mother, Estelle—to deadpan, “I’ll have what she’s having.” That line became a cultural touchstone, and the table is now marked for photo-seeking fans.
The now-iconic scene was shot during regular business hours, with real customers in the background. The authenticity of their reactions adds to the scene’s enduring charm. Since then, couples and cinephiles alike have made the pilgrimage to sit where Billy Crystal and Meg Ryan once did, hoping for a little movie magic—or at least a really good sandwich.
Through waves of change in the Lower East Side, Katz’s has persisted. The neighborhood, once densely packed with Jewish, Italian, and Irish immigrants, has evolved—trendy cafes and boutiques now dot the streets—but Katz’s endures as a beacon of tradition. Its continued success comes from a refusal to compromise: slow-cured meats, hand-sliced to order, and a staff that treats regulars and newcomers with equal parts warmth and brisk efficiency.
There’s humor, too, but it’s rooted in the city’s personality. If you linger too long at the counter, the staff might nudge you along—there’s always a line, and everyone’s hungry. But don’t be surprised if you get a free sample of pastrami: a salty, smoky welcome to the Katz’s family.
In a city defined by constant reinvention, Katz’s Delicatessen is a rare constant—a place where presidents and everyday people, movie stars and soldiers, all come together over a simple sandwich. The secret ingredient? Maybe it’s tradition. Maybe it’s the pastrami. Or maybe, it’s just the taste of New York itself.
So next time you step inside Katz’s, look around. You’re not just eating lunch—you’re taking a bite out of history.